Every surfer in the world knows where is Indonesia and it will be in their dream destinations surf bucket to be able to dance with the wave, ridding barrels after barrels in warm water.
Born and bred in a tropical country, it does not mean that all Indonesians love being in the water. One of my former colleagues from France told me once that he surprised that not a lot of Indonesian people able to swim.
However, I love water since I was kid and any water sports would be a dream to learn, achieve and be a hobby as long as I can afford it. I started learning to swim when I was 9 year old because it was one of the activities that I could enjoy at the orphan house I lived from aged 5 – 15 year old.
In fact, in some part of Indonesia, beaches and the sea is sacred places, hence, we should be away from the sea to stay safe, wear the correct colour of the clothes and respect the sea. I grew up hearing the story about The Queen of The Sea and believed to the story.
With the fact that I could not afford any other water sport equipment other than a cheap swimming suit, let alone a surfboard.
Short to the story, I learnt surfing for the first time when I moved to Bali where I went to Kuta beach almost every evening for sunset, rented a very old board which was very heavy because a lot of water inside the board until I could not really walk with it with the thought that I needed to get my upper body stronger (LOL).
When my husband and I decided to move to the UK for good, I said to myself, I need to do some exercise and getting used to the British weather.
The first obstacle, to get in to the UK water, either you like it or not, to be able to stay in the water for a long time, you need to wear a wetsuit
Hence, I bought a second hand wetsuit from a charity shop for £5, apparently the wetsuit was too small and I could not get out easily until I cried and asked my husband to cut the wetsuit and felt really really sick wrapped by it.
After came back to Wales from my contract job for almost a year, I decided to save some money, bought the correct size of wetsuit and I bought a board that easy to carry and ride for my ‘so so’ skill, because I do not really like the foamy board that usually use for the surfing course because it reminds me of the old days when I could not walk in Kuta beach in the better version.
Last winter, I saw a second hand surf betty – NSP 6’8″ surfboard for sale on facebook page and decided to buy it, I ride it over winter………….yes … you are reading it correctly…… I RIDE THE BOARD OVER WINTER and decided to swap the board to a fun board 5’10” by local shapper.
Sometimes, I cannot believe myself that I might be one of the few tropical kids that climatized with cold, wet, grey, windy Welsh weather and found my freedom back in the water no matter what is the temperature and looking forward into surfing in autumn and winter.
Learning how to master surfing is hard and definitely it is one of expensive sports, I am one of the lucky people who can afford to build up the equipment that necessary for cold water surf and get myself addicted to it, while many others probably can not.
The photo below was taken during 18 degree water temperature and I decided to wear shorty 2mm and a boardshort. Am I climatised?
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